perjantai 7. tammikuuta 2011

Surfing in Agadir


Us, the beginner group headed to Agadir, cause the waves at Croucro were too big for us.
And guess what? MY BOARD LOST ITS VIRGINITY TODAY ! <3

"God, Patriot, King"


I love it. Yoshi did a great job. It turned out to be better than I thought.. and it is PURPLE !
Though surfing with it is a challenge... It was such a huge leap from a 9"8 log to my board which is a cross between a minimal and a short board. And because it is only 6"8 it's fuuuuucking hard to paddle... Also standing up isn't as simple as on a wide long board. Man, I kept trying to stand up too slowly all the time.. That's not how you do it. Weirdly enough, on my first try, when my board lost its virginity, I caught a wave (or white wash if we wanna be correct) and stood up effortlessly. I guess the less you think about it, the easier it is. Which is so true now that I think about it. Don't think, just get up.



I was frustrated though, cause Sayeed being a surf teacher, was like yeah you should just ride a log, so much easier, short boards are for pro's blaablaa. Denny, the English owner of the camp, had told me that morning, that he thinks I should ride my own board cause come on, it's mine. And he appreciates that i'm trying to learn to ride a short board cause it is so much harder and if I'll learn how to, I can surf any board. "Sayeed and the other surf guides won't probably get it and they will probably want you to ride a log, cause they are surf instructors and want you to catch as many waves a s you can. But there's only one way to learn how to ride a short board, and that's the hard way.

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