perjantai 21. tammikuuta 2011

Surfing @ Imsouane

6:30 and the moon was still shining over the town :)


Me, Tom, Sam, Edwin, Christian, Juan and Sayeed & Rachid, as our surf guides, woke up at 6:30 and started driving to Imsouane, this cute little fisherman/surf town. We surfed at this beautiful little spot at low tide which was perfect for my kind of learner. I really got to paddle and it was nice that I didn't have to fight the waves while trying to get out. The waves were really in rare and a bit slow, so paddling with my short board-ish board was almost impossible with my non-existing arm muscles and already-used energy. I did however manage to paddle on to a wave, but god damnit, of course I hadn't waxed my board, so I slipped just as I was about to get up.... arghh.



Anyway, It was really really really nice, cause this was the first time we all were out at the same time in the water (talking about me, tom, sam and justin). And because it was Justin's last day before heading back to his job in the Australian army in Afghanistan, it gave this nice feeling of togetherness :)
After trying to persuade me a couple of times, I finally gave in, and Tom and I switched boards. It was actually fun on that long board... paddling with it... aaaaa, god's gift to limp bizkits...! And it was just like old times... Because the waves weren't strong, I wouldn't have enough padling power to get onto one, so Tom was just pushing me onto the wave.. just like in Sayulita!

Me and my lovely Aussies - Tom, Justin & Sam


When it was mid tide, and the waves died in that beach break, we went for lunch. I was fascinated with the fish auction! Didn't know one existed! But because I am dirt poor / broke az, I decided to stick with spaghetti bolognaise, instead of buying fish like Tom, Sam and the other guys did. And I made a terrible mistake. What actually would've been the same price AND delicious AND the thing you should buy once in a fisherman town could not be implified to the shit I got for 50 dirhams. I got plain fucking spaghetti without any kind of sauce what so ever. I'm an idiot. Note to self: Don't order pasta with normal expectations.



After lunch we went to surf he other side (since it getting high tide), or the advanced team went and I tagged along. I paddled out with my board and man it was a hard one. After my arms were all jelly I managed to get up once for a couple of seconds but after I fell off, I decided it was time for me to go in, cause I was out of energy.

I should listen to what Rachid said.

He had been telling me something with his sometimes-not-so-clear-English and although I couldn't make really anything of what he had just said, I couldn't bother to ask him to repeat it. Well, I should've. Cause he was telling me to watch and wait till the (wave) set finishes and then come out of the water. So after deciding to come out, Me, not having heard all this, just paddle towards the beach, get up and BUUUUUUUUUUM. I got hammered by a wave. Fuuuucking hell. I was standing in less than 50 cm of water when the wave hit me so i'm tumbling and rumbling in sand water and just thinking that i'm gonna get SMASHED in the head with a fin from my board (and that my board is probably gonna get damaged, too). I get up and start running out of the water - I don't wanna get hammered by another one - too late. BUUUUUUUUUUUM. I feel like i'm in a washing machine full of sand.



I get out, slightly embarassed and pissed off with my rookie-ness. I look at my board: It has a white scratch that I assume is from my wetsuit knee pads or something. I'm too exhausted to think at that moment about my board.



After getting my wetsuit off and dropping my board at our bus, I return to the beach and join Tom, Sam and
Justin at the beach break where they are running around all esctatic like little children. Tom going ADHD crazy and dunking at barrels was the most funniest and sweetest sight ever. Wish I could get my brain to go to a more kid level more often !

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