When we got to Tamri beach break I noticed that my board's laminate had cracked thanks to getting hammered yesterday at Imsouane... FUUUUCK. I was all ready to go in, so Edwin lent me his 7"0 and I had a go. Tamri beach break was a bitch though, and because of the strong current I didn't really have a go that many times and ended up struggling to paddle back to the shore. Luckily I made it. I was on the verge of starting to panic when I noticed how far I had drifted with the rip...!
We drove to Croucrou beach break and I jut chilled since I didn't have a board. I met two duchies that had driven all the way from Holland to Morocco. Pretty sick drive. In the evening mom called and talked to her <3 Crazy, didn't talk this much with my parents in the whole time i was staying in Australia (3 months) than now in this month...
We had a pretty interesting convo at dinner. Edwin was telling about working as a paramedic in Bronx. Wouldn't have guessed in a million years what he does for a living! Edwin also told about how it was working on 9/11... pretty fucking surreal.
---
23.1
The sun wasn't out so I couldn't fix my board with the sun repair cream, so instead I used a 7"10 which was easy to ride! Nothing really interesting happened this day.. I saw Dutch Chris again and had a chat with him and declined his invitation to smoke weed with him. I also met this cool English guy, Damien, who is a surf instructor at Dynamic (just around the corner from our surf camp). He was pretty hilarious with his circus tricks from standing on his hand while surfing and doing all kinds of jumps.. entertaining indeed!
Me, Tom, Sam, Chris and Momo went out for lunch and it was quirky to see how Banana Village had come into life on a Sunday afternoon. It was pretty intriguing listening to Momo tell about the marriage system. You can have four wifes BUT you always have to get to wifes (and other wives?) permission to remarry. And each of them has to be treated with equality: If you buy your second wife a gift, you also have to buy your first wife one. I did however get pissed off when Momo compared women to cars: "How would you feel like driving the same car for 40 years?"
Ei kommentteja:
Lähetä kommentti